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THE PROCESS OF JEWELRY
 The
physical realization of a piece of jewelry is much like other
pursuits… one has an idea, a vision, or perhaps a sketch of
what is to be… then the question arises, how to bring it about?
Like they say, dreams are cheap.
Often,
while thinking about a certain piece, or how to deal with a
set of stones, I make sketches to “try out” different possible
approaches. This process is in itself very liberating,
because the drawing or watercolor can happen so easily and quickly.
Then,
when I have an idea of how to proceed, I have two possible routes
to take to translate it into the actual metal. One is
the “direct metal” method; the other is the “lost wax” process.
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lost wax process
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LOST WAX PROCESS
Melting metal and pouring it into a prepared mold is almost
as old as metalworking itself, about 3000 years. When
I work the wax, I form it and model it with my fingers somewhat
like working clay… the wax has a wonderful flexibility and
delicacy very different from the resistant metal. |
casting work
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When
the wax “model” is finished, it is enveloped in a plaster
mold; then the model is “burned out” in a kiln, leaving
a cavity where the wax used to be. (Hence the term “lost
wax”; the art was never forgotten, but the model is destroyed
in the process). Then, the molten metal (18k gold
in my case) is poured into the mold, and an amazingly faithful
and detailed gold replacement results. Then the casting
must be finished with abrasives and gravers… other forged
metal pieces may be added, such as bezels to hold the stones,
or different metal colors and types. |
DIRECT
METAL METHOD
 Working
metal directly is as old as the hills… ancient artisans formed
pieces of gold and silver and pounded it into shape to almost
magical effects. And, part of the wonder of these early
efforts was the “noble” quality of the material itself… metals
like gold and silver which apparently resist the depredations
of time.
The most remarkable thing about practicing the art of jewelry
is the simplicity of it all… one works with one’s whole body,
particularly the hands and eyes, to bring about the finished
piece. Bits of metal can be cut, hammered, and formed,
gold soldered, engraved and finished in a continuous process,
pretty much as jewelers have done for hundreds of years.
However, “simple” is by no means “easy” – and I suppose it is
that challenge which creates an always-disappearing horizon
of skill for the craftsman.
Direct Metal Method
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